Sep 16

Sep 16 Dolly Sods Wilderness: An Unbroken Landscape in West Virginia

If you can only visit one place in the entire state of West Virginia, make sure it’s Dolly Sods Wilderness. The Wilderness spans over 17,000 acres and sits high at an elevation of 2,500 to 4,700 feet on the top of the Allegheny Plateau in the Monongahela National Forest.

Dolly Sods can actually be split into three different areas: the Scenic Area which includes the Allegheny Front and Bear Rocks Preserve; the Wilderness, which encompasses most of the area; and the Flatrock and Roaring Plains at the southern end.

The name comes from a German Pioneer family whose livestock grazed the grassy, open plains that were called “sods” by locals. You wouldn’t be able to tell when visiting now, but back in the early 1900’s the entire forest here was logged, clearcut down to the dirt, which made it more susceptible to fires. On top of that, in 1943 the military used the area for training for World War II - some of the artillery and mortar shells can actually still be found in the wilderness. Should you come across a live bomb when off-trail, the Forest Service asks that you take note of where it is, take pictures, and report it to 1-888-283-0303.

Today the landscape has returned to something beautifully unexpected: the terrain and weather in the Sods can be compared to what you’d find further north in Canada; vast remoteness covered with rocks and boulders, lush landscapes, abundant fauna, and temps typically 15 degrees lower than the valley below. You’ll also find wind-carved rocks, crooked/stunted trees, bogs, marshes, and more stunning features. But keep in mind, the ecology here is still delicate and fragile.

Know Before You Go

The Leave No Trace principles are extremely important here. Groups of over 10 are not allowed and it is imperative you take out what you bring in. Bear sightings can occur here, especially when they’re seeking food. Click here to read what the Forest Service has to say about it.

Getting There & Around

Forest Roads 19 and 75 are closed from January to April; Forest Road 70 remains open from October to February but is not maintained during the winter months. These roads are graveled, rough, steep, and narrow - be cautious and courteous to other drivers.

When to Visit & For How Long

Not sure when to visit? Spring offers wildflowers; Summer is perfect since the weather tends to be slightly cooler than lower elevations; Fall gives you the most stunning views; and Winter offers the real adventure seekers a new challenge. Keep in mind, hunting is permitted in Dolly Sods from September to May, and if you plan to hike during these months it is recommended you wear bright orange clothing.

I recommend spending at least two days hiking in Dolly Sods, whether you’re backpacking or camping there, or staying somewhere else. The trail lengths may not seem too long, but the terrain (and views) will make your hike much longer than you expect.

Where to stay?

Camping is permitted in Dolly Sods Wilderness as long as you don’t set up within 300 feet of the road, streams, and trails. Although there’s plenty of campsites already set up throughout the Sods made by backpackers, meaning you’ll find some land cleared for the tent, a fire pit, and some even have chairs made of stone as well.

Backpacking is extremely popular here in the Sods, with the numerous trails that can be connected to make a long loop. I’ve yet to backpack here personally but check out this post by Into the Backcountry Guides to see an example of a trail loop.

There’s also roadside camping in designated areas along Forest Road 75 and 19.

The other option is the Red Creek Campground, which is small and primitive, that is a first come first serve basis, and located off the main road. Red Creek has about 12 campsites and is open from May through November.

>> Related: Tips For Your First Solo Female Camping Trip <<

View from Bear Rocks Preserve and the surrounding wilderness

The most popular spot in the wilderness is probably Bear Rocks Preserve, operated under the Nature Conservancy, but works with and connects to the Forest Service land. This is where you’ll find some of the most impressive views of the surrounding mountains, mainly because you'll be standing along the Allegheny Front, which is a ridge that stretches from New York to Tennessee. Here you’ll also come across Huckleberry Plains, wind-blown spruce trees, and seriously impressive rock cliffs. There’s no formal trail, but there are plenty of informal ones that you can take through the brush and rocks.

Hiking in Dolly Sods Wilderness

There’s over 47 miles of trails in the area, many of which follow along old railroad grades and logging roads, as well as the Red Creek (which runs down the middle of the wilderness), and has a few streams connecting to it.

Being at the top of the plateau, there’s not too much elevation change along the trails (although there is some), but the terrain is rocky and rough in most areas. Almost all of the trails are out and backs, but they all end up connecting at some point so you could create a loop trail if you didn’t want to just turn around the way you came.

For the most part, the trails are easy to navigate; some forks will have trailhead signs, but not all. It’s best to download an offline map and have a printout of the trails so you don’t get lost. Surprisingly, some areas in the wilderness have cell service, but it’s spotty so I wouldn’t rely on that.

>> Related: Hiking As A Solo Female: 5 Tips <<

My favorite part of the Sods is that many of the trails will lead you through a forest and then all of a sudden you’re in a meadow or viewing a waterfall or a mountain view before heading back into the forest. In some cases, you’ll have to cross the Red Creek and that can be dangerous depending on water levels so keep that in mind when you go.